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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.